The helmet chinstrap is a tan replica which has been stitched on per originals. The kit includes: liner, standard chinstrap and set of 3 rivets with washers. Sweatband may have been replaced at the same time. . These are not meant for Westinghouse liners - they had different webbing and buckles.
Let me know if you have any questions. No liner chin strap, but I do have one up in another auction. The P-38 had all of those things going for it. Heat stamp is 1258 R. This holds the wings of the helmet cover inside and helps keep the cover on the helmet.
These are also of the correct length measuring 13cm from top of strap to centre of buckle pin hole. The M1 helmet is a U. The strap is black metal that clips onto the bale with forward arch. The ballistics properties of the outer shell had been improved so that it would resist penetration by a 230-grain caliber. Because most of the doughboys that fought in the trenches were young men in their teens and early twenties, we offer this band in two sizes, the size of the original model and a larger size for those of us with wrists like fence posts.
If you made your own liner kits - use the bucking bar flat plate with 2 dimples from the segma snap setting kit. For this article I will focus on the following: Authors Commentary: To be totally honest - this was one of my least favorite projects. The M1 liners could have wear on the rim, minor warping, small nicks, chips or cracks. The Helmet in detail Perhaps the first thing to look out for when examine an M1 helmet is the shell. Low Pressure liners were made by the companies Hood and St Clair and were constructed of rubber fibre. You may have to look very carefully. Like the suspension webbing, this component is riveted to the helmet.
The shell is in good condition. Also, instead of finding the right place to install rivets. If you need a certain date; I will try to do my best to meet your needs. All have correct markings on the band and the leather. These liners look very nice when the leather is a little aged, with brown shoe die or polish.
Those A-washers are pretty strong too, someone would have to use a tool to pull them out. For a web reference on identifying maker marks of the helmet liners, or other great photos - check out If you want to spend money on a book about the M1 helmet, I highly reccomend The Liners: The High Pressure Liners we're working with came in several different flavors. There was also added danger in attempting recovery of damaged helmets from exposure to enemy fire during the time required for recovery. I used to put this stuff in my Zippo and it burned just fine! In Korea, not all soldiers wore their helmet, because of its weight, lack of stability, and so forth. Straps are very good, no problems. Can I get the A-Washers and the outside rivets off without damaging either? Soldiers who had sustained hits on their helmets without receiving a wound did not want to give up their helmets and in many instances did not turn them in.
Its a project that can be done by hand, without special presses or equipment - just a hammer and a setting die - but it does take some careful attention. The leather is the correct grade leather which is die cut. Made with our usual high quality netting and veg tanned leather bumper ring and chinstrap. The outer surface was painted olive drab and featured an air vent above the frontal rivet, a feature of all subsequent wartime liners. Also notice how the chamios ends at approximately the second hole - just like the originals! This is a source of endless confusion and consternation to collectors and re-enactors. It is made up of an outer shell, which is constructed from a single piece of non-magnetized steel, and a liner, which is a hardhat-style helmet that contains an adjustable suspension system.
The sweat band is a quality replica as is the clip-in nape strap. Perfect for living history, reenactment and helmet restorers. Feel free to e-mail me with any questions you may have regarding this item. It is manufactured from 100% leather and made in two part chamios and cow leather as the originals were. I got it with the intent of restoring the main portion of webbing, and still intend to do that, but I haven't gotten around to it yet and I am in need of advice. C-Ration Spoon A white plastic spoon that came with the C-Rations accessory pack. Background: There are 3 main types of helmet liners we're going to need to know about before we proceed.
Notice the accurate five holes each strap and how the first hole starts very near the chincup, so many replicas place the holes incorrectly. The liner shell also has an air-vent above the frontal rivet, which was a feature on wartime liners. The importance of the liner, however, rests with the adjustable suspension system, which allows the wearer to adjust the sizing of the helmet for a proper fit. I found that the following process worked well for me when installing the helmet liner rivets. I've come across dozens of nice liners with that exact same A-washer missing; always wondered why and how those got pulled out while the rest of the webbing remained minty? You might need to slip something under the long metal part to help it pop loose if it has been closed for a long time. The liner is painted white on the outside with the emblem for the Texas State Guard on each side.
I volunteered to make the project happen and had no clue wtf I was getting myself into. Assembling your helmet You should have the following helmet components. These were realised to be too fragile and so were soon replaced by rectangular shaped fixed bales. The shell is solid and has no cracks, rust or dents. Great for the nerves, bad for the lungs, a must have item. White rayon was initially used for the webbing, attached to the liner by rectangular aluminium washers.